The finger joints were coated with unthickened epoxy, and once all edges were covered I added thickened epoxy between the fingers on one side. The two panels were then pushed together and the second panel screwed down to the base piece of plywood, through the plastic sheeting that prevented the panel from sticking to the base. The squeezed out epoxy was scraped off, another sheet of plastic lai over these pieces, and the corresponding panels from the other side of the hull were placed on top of the first panels and aligned. They were then glued and screwed to match, and the squeezed out epoxy removed from the top sheets. To make sure that the finger joints didn't splay, I laid more plastic over the joint and a couple of strips of timber over the joints, and weighted the timber down with bricks and other weights.  The finger joints were cleaned up with a random orbital sander.

The laminated centreboard was roughly cut to shape with a Japanese pull saw, and then the shape finished with a belt sander. There will be an 8KG lead tip added to the base of the centreboard.

The stringers to be glued to the chine panels had to be joined with an 8:1 scarf joint, whcih I cut with the Japanese pull saw. The tips of the stringers had to be tapered down to only a few millimetres, over a bit over a metre, using a plane. The stringers were then clamped to the chines, and screwed in place.

The stringers and chines were coated with unthickened epoxy, and then glued onto the chines with thickened epoxy. Once the stringers were screwed down, any "squeeze out" was scraped off before it set. The thickened epoxy was applied to the panel and to stop the stringer spreading the glue all over the panel I made up a few strips of timber with spacers on the end, to lift the stringer away from the chine pane. As I screwed the stringer to the chine I moved the spacer further along the panel.

The inner sheer panels have an optional cut-out that can provide additional storage in the cockpit. I've cut these out using a jigsaw and a file.

There is temporary scafolding inside the hull. This let me get in and lay glass cloth along the centreline, and glue some of the bunk supports in place without stressing the fragile centreline join. The hull won't reach full strength until all of the components are in place and the outside has been sheathed in fibreglass cloth and expoxy.

The plans call for right-angled strips of fibreglass tape coated in epoxy to be used as the suports for the top of the water ballast tank. I made a right-angled jig, and a rounded plug, to hold the epoxy-coated fibreglass in the right position while curing. The clamps pulled everything together and also ensured that any excess epoxy drained to the middle of the strip.

Where extra tension was needed when pulling the hull into shape, I used two wires, and a plywood spacer to make sure that the wires didn't tear through the hull.

I'm waiting for my fibreglass cloth and some of the thicker sections of Hoop Pine for the centreboard case, so I jumped ahead to working on the rudder. I will have to wait for the cloth so that I can sheath the blade, but it's a bit less work to do later.

I thought about using a length of copper pipe to feed the rudder downhaul through, but I was worried about how well the line would feed through the tight curve. The plans call for HDPE plastic for the tight turn, so I cut a piece out of a kitchen chopping board, and drilled holes through it to act as locators. Epoxy doesn't stick to HDPE, so the epoxy from each side going into the holes will form pins to hold it in place.

Epoxy was laid along each chine, in preparation for fibreglass tape. Once the epoxy along the chines was partially cured I used my scraper to remove any lumps and bumps. A quick vacuum along the chine removed the scraped epoxy. The chine was then brushed with unthickened epoxy.

Fibreglass tape was cut to the length of each chine segment, coated with unthickened epoxy, and rolled up, ready for installatiom in the boat. The fibreglass tape was unrolled along the chine, pulled up or down to centre it on the chine edge, and then any bubbles were removed by dabbing along the tape with a brush.